People

There were a lot of rainbow flags flying in downtown Lima, a phenomenon that confused us initially. How could there be this much gay pride in a country that is 90 percent Catholic and largely inhospitable to homosexuality? We later concluded that the flag symbolized the diversity of Peru’s people—primarily an olive branch acknowledging the 45 percent who are indigenous Indians.

The Andean people are a colorful strand in the social tapestries of these two countries. While most people are mestizo, the indigenous people are much more numerous than the Native Americans in the U.S. (at least these days). Traditions are still very much intact: babies are carried in cloth papooses, hair is worn long and braided with a hat on top, and strands of beads adorn necks.

The dominate group in both countries are the Quechua people, whose names adorn many natural landmarks (i.e. the Papallacta springs, and the Cotopaxi and Tungurahua volcanoes—the latter translating as “little hell.”) and which is an official language of Peru. The Quechan also shouldered the largest burden of guerilla fighting in Peru.

Life continues to be a struggle for las idigenas, many who still farm and work as market venders. Their children are more likely to work young or beg, as far as I could see. And most mestizos don’t seem to know but a few words of their languages.

The Otavalo people north of Quito, however, are one of the most economically successful indigenous groups in the world. They have become internationally famous for weaving—sweaters, bags, rugs, even finger puppets. The Spaniards originally pressed the Otavaleños into sweat-shop conditions to weave beginning in the 16th-century. In a grossly latent version of trickle-down economics, the profits seem to be finally coming back.

I never met any indigenous people while I was there—Spanish was tough enough. But I met many mestizos, basically anyone who would put up with my basic vocabulary and bad accent. I danced with anyone who would swing me around. And I couldn’t get enough of it.

The long, black braids.

Women selling their wares in Quito.....Indigenous workers at a market in south Quito.

There were also people of African origin, especially in Ecuador. Many of them worked on the northern coast.

Traditional dress.

Ritmo Tropical: where I took private salsa lessons for an hour a day ($6)....A traveling mariachi band playing in a corner store.

Though one of the few countries to outlaw the death penalty, getting older is punishable in Ecuador. According to Quechuan birthday tradition, everyone at your party gets a chance to flog you good.

These venders at a Quito market were eager for me to take their picture, but smiled timidly when I uncovered my lens.

On Sundays, bands, street performers and all-out theatrics (for Independence Day) hit the plaza circuit in Quito.